Organic Cotton: A Reality Check (Pt. 3)

Herbicides and Weed Management

About a year ago, I heard a presentation on pesticides that got me thinking about organic crop production from a different angle. It was given by Leonard Gianessi of the CropLife Foundation at a conference I attended in 2008. The Crop Life Foundation is a pro-pesticide advocacy group, funded by agronomic giants like Dow and Monstanto. I confess that if I had known this at the time, I probably would not have paid very close attention! But there was one point in the presentation that stuck with me even after I learned the origins of the speaker, and that was the short-handled hoe.

a slide from Leonard Gianessi's presentation

a slide from Leonard Gianessi's presentation

Somewhere in the evolution of agriculture, farmers had the idea to cut off the handle of a normal hoe and make it into a “short-handled hoe”. The purpose was to bring the worker closer to the crop seedlings so that he/she could better see what they were hacking at. Of course, this means that the workers are bent over all day, which is awfully hard on the back. The short-handled hoe was the center of a legal battle in 1974, where it was banned in California for the sake of health and safety of the farm workers. Some farmers used hand-weeding as an alternative, which wasn’t specifically addressed in the ban, but had similar health consequences. In 2004, California instituted a ban on hand-weeding as well, but organic farmers were granted an exception because they relied so heavily on the practice for weed control.

Weeds, even more than pests, are one of the biggest challenges and expenses for organic farmers. Organic producers rely on labor to a much greater extent than conventional farmers using pesticides. Throughout the May, June and July, organic cotton farmers employ about 12 hours per acre per month to chop weeds and grasses. On a 200 acre farm, this would add up to 2,400 hours of labor. I can’t find specific information about this online, but these numbers suggest to me that organic cotton production doesn’t normally use a short-handled hoe or hand-weeding. But no matter what they’re using, weeding is a hot,grueling job. It’s one thing to pull a few weeds in the morning, before the heat of the day, and it’s quite another to work all day, every day, to tend acres of cotton fields. It has to be said that migrant workers are tough, tough people. I always feel like kind of a marshmallow when I consider how hard they work.

Those who argue in favor of herbicides say that they spare workers the hard labor of hand weeding, and even benefit the environment by making no-till farming a possibility, among other things. It is also true that if laborers are properly trained and equipped, and chemicals are appropriately handled (as they are legally required to be) then the exposure that they receive should be minimal and benign. But we also know that the standard isn’t always reality, and the use of agricultural chemicals often has unintended consequences.

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Photo courtesy of USDA's Natural Resources Conservation Service

Conclusion

“An organic farm, properly speaking, is not one that uses certain methods and substances and avoids others; it is a farm whose structure is formed in imitation of the structure of a natural system that has the integrity, the independence and the benign dependence of an organism.”- Wendell Berry, in The Gift of Good Land

I think too often we attribute these qualities to all organic farms, and not at all to conventional farms. If you were to ask them, most farmers would say that they are environmentalists. They recognize their own dependence on their land, and because they often plan to pass the farm on to future generation, they the need to manage their farm sustainably.

I wish very much that cotton was more like food, where it’s a lot easier to find a grower and have a dialogue on their production practices. Somewhere between growing the cotton and processing the cotton into fabric and clothing, we lose the ability to connect with the farmer in a direct and meaningful way, and are left to rely on the organic standard instead.

Because cotton is such a high maintainance crop, and because there are so many challenges with growing it organically, I’d encourage green crafters to consider using a diversity of materials. Absolutely yes, organic cotton, but also yes to hemp, linen and soy, and secondhand materials. Hemp and linen are two of my favorites for home decor items, because they’re naturally low input, they’re beautiful, and they wear like iron. I’m not anti-organic-cotton. For some products, like a baby’s onesie or a cozy quilt, I can’t picture any other fiber that can match the cozy softness of cotton.  I also love organic farmers. In fact, I love any farmer that takes action to make their operation more sustainable, whether it’s someone who uses integrated pest management, winter cover crops, biointensive management, nutrient management, irrigation water management, precision farming… or any of the hundreds of practices out there to make the world a better place.

Organic Cotton: A Reality Check (Pt. 2)

Aldicarb- A Nasty, Nasty Pesticide

For this section on pesticides, I’ll spare you the photos of boll weevils and fleahoppers. Instead, I’m going to ask you to pretend you’re a farmer. Specifically, pretend you’re one of the many organic farmers that have made the transition from conventional farming. While you certainly have a sense of wanting to do good for the environment, your primary motivation for taking on the risk and expense of converting to organic production is likely to be the premium price that you’ll receive for your crop.

Don’t underestimate the risk involved here. Converting from a conventional to an organic farm involves a complete change in the way you do business. You may have to invest in new equipment, and make changes in the way you grow your crops. You’ll have to learn new ways to deal with insects, weeds and diseases. You’ll likely have to get used to seeing a smaller crop yield. And for all of this, you will not see a premium price for your crop for three years, which is the “transition” time frame for organic certification (which is a cost and a process in itself…). It isn’t difficult to see why many farmers who may otherwise be interested in becoming organic farmers are deterred by one or more of these factors.

Let’s consider a spectrum, where on one end, you have a stereotypical conventional farmer. He manages his fields like a chemistry lab. He plants all his acreage in cotton year after year, sprays toxic, broad-spectrum pesticides on a regular basis, adds too many nutrients and uses chemical defoliants. On the other end, you have a stereotypical organic farmer. He rotates his cotton with other crops, uses the correct amount of manure to fertilize, and is able to control pests and insects solely through certain cropping methods and encouragement of beneficial insects.  What, or rather “who”, is in the middle of the spectrum?

Pretty much everyone, right? For example, many conventional farmers employ some of the organic production methods in a process called “Integrated Pest Management“, or IPM. IPM is “an effective and environmentally sensitive approach to pest management that relies on a combination of common-sense practices”. (Thanks, US EPA!) It involves setting an economic threshold at the beginning of the season for different pests, the idea being that until pests inflict a predetermined level of damage on the crop, it isn’t economically appropriate to treat for that pest. A lot of these “threshold levels” are determined by universities and made available to the public. Then, throughout the season, the farmer “scouts“, or monitors and identifies the pests in his field. IPM also involves preventing pests- also a key concept in organic production, and uses many of the same techniques. Finally, when a threshold level for a pest has been reached and prevention is no longer effective, then the farmer will turn to a pesticide that does the job with a minimum of impact on health and the environment. Using this approach, IPM helps farmers to avoid regular, broadcast spraying of non-specific pesticides throughout the season.

On the other hand, it’s possible for a farmer to have transitioned from conventional to organic without committing fully to the overhaul that this requires in his operation. He follows the letter of the organic certification law, but not the spirit of the law. In this case, the farmer would simply substitute an organic-approved pesticide for the synthetic pesticides he used to use, without paying mind to many of the preventative techniques that should go along with it. Organic pesticides, by the way, can be every bit as dangerous as synthetic pesticides, and may in some cases be worse.

Pyrethrin- An Organic-but-Still-Nasty Pesticide

As I said before, I’m pretty ignorant of how the average farmer grows cotton. I don’t know whether or not conventional cotton farmers typically rotate their crops, or to what degree they use integrated pest management. In my area, where farmers grow corn and soybeans, they do typically rotate their crops, and they often plant cover crops and use IPM. It makes financial sense for them to do so, because pesticides are an expensive investment and using them on a regular schedule is like flushing profit down a drain.

My point here is that the National Organic Standard may sometimes make a false distinction between organic and conventional farmers. I believe it’s a helpful tool- indeed, it’s the only tool we’ve got!- but the prevalent idea that I see in the media is that organic certification separates the good guys from the bad guys. That’s just not true.

Next up: Herbicides…

Organic Cotton: A Reality Check (Pt. 1)

If internet research is anything to go by, there is no fiber in the world that’s greener than organic cotton, and nothing more polluting than conventional cotton. Organic cotton is “grown without toxic pesticides or fertilizers”, “pure”, “zero impact”. Conventional cotton is “the world’s dirtiest crop”, taking 1/3 pound of pesticides to produce a single t-shirt. In fact, there’s nothing much in the first several pages of a google search to indicate that this language is anything but accurate.

courtesy of USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service

courtesy of USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service

The problem, of course, is that reality isn’t that cut and dried. Organic cotton and conventional cotton can be- seriously- equally responsible or irresponsible choices.

Before I get into this, I should note that I’m not a farmer, and it’s been several years since I worked directly with farmers. I don’t even live in a part of the world that grows cotton. But in my day job, I’m an environmental scientist and a certified crop advisor. I stay up on research and trends, and generally have a good handle on the realities of agriculture. In my role as an artist attempting to make sustainable choices, it seems unfair to me that facts about cotton production aren’t accessible to everyone. In order to make a green decision, you need to make an informed decision!

So over the next few posts, I’m going to go over a few issues with cotton that deserve consideration. In today’s post, I’ll go over how cotton is a high maintenance crop. In part two, I’ll go over pesticide use in the production of cotton. Part three will talk about herbicide use and organic alternatives. Part four will talk about how organic cotton acreage may compete with other acreage that’s currently either forested or used for biofuels. If you have any questions or corrections, I’m all ears, but if you’re writing to refute a section that I haven’t written yet, then your comment will have to wait! I’ll also say right from the start that I don’t think that anyone should stop using organic cotton- I use it myself- rather that you always need to keep your eye out for better alternatives.

Part One- Cotton is High Maintenance

The first part of my little dissertation is also the shortest part. It is true that conventional cotton production often employs the use of copious amounts of fertilizers and pesticides- insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides- because cotton itself is vulnerable to lots of different insects and diseases. This vulnerability is a fact whether the cotton is grown conventionally or organically. Cotton also needs just as much nitrogen and phosphorus when it’s grown organically as it does when it’s grown conventionally.

The idea of cotton being a high maintenance plant is important to understanding that organic growers must find alternative ways to handle these issues. There are certain production methods that can minimize the risk of damage to crops due to insects, weeds and diseases, but there are also biological pesticides and natural fertilizers, and these products must be handled with just as much caution as their inorganic, synthetic counterparts.

In the next post, I’ll go into greater detail about pesticide use and the alternatives that are available to cotton farmers.